In the past, it was quite common for pasta dough to be fried directly, rather than simply boiled or baked. This method has largely been lost in modern Italian cuisine, but "Ciceri e Tria" remains as a testament to this forgotten tradition. A portion of the homemade pasta is fried until crispy, then served atop the finished dish for an extraordinary textural addition. What really makes this unusual dish stand out, though, is the incredible flavor of the very simple sauce.
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CICERI E TRIA RECIPE
Makes: 3 to 4 servings
Cook Time: 1 ½ hours, with an overnight rest
Ingredients
4 servings of fresh semolina pasta dough
Semolina flour for dusting
7 ounces (200 g) dry chickpeas or garbanzo beans
1 teaspoon (5 g) baking soda
Salt
6 tablespoons (90 ml) extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for frying and drizzling
1 clove garlic, peeled
2 dry or fresh chili peppers, chopped
2 sprigs fresh rosemary
4 bay leaves (optional)
A pinch of fresh black pepper
Cut the semolina dough in half (or cut off a smaller portion if working with limited rolling space). Keep one half wrapped in plastic while you work on the other portion. Roll the dough out with a rolling pin into a large circle, until it is about 1/16th inch (1.5 mm) thin, or the thickness you prefer for ribbon pasta. Dust the pasta with flour as necessary to prevent sticking while you roll it. Cut the dough circle in half, then slice each half into 1 inch (2.5 cm) ribbons.
Take a ribbon strand by grasping each end with your fingers. Gently twist the ends in opposite directions until the ribbon forms a spiral tube. Place the twisted pasta on a baking sheet dusted with flour. Continue to twist the remaining ribbons, arranging them all on the sheet so that they don’t touch. Repeat to roll and shape the rest of the semolina dough.
Place the chickpeas in a bowl along with the baking soda. Fill with water to cover. Let the chickpeas soak and the pasta dry overnight.
Drain and rinse the soaked chickpeas. Place in a pot and fill with water to cover. Bring the water to a boil and cook the chickpeas until they are soft but not mushy, about one hour. While they cook, add warm water as necessary to keep them covered. Stir them frequently by swirling the pot, never with a utensil. As the chickpeas near completion, salt them to taste. Turn off the heat when done.
Fill a pan with about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of oil and heat to frying temperature, about 350° F (175° C). Working in batches, fry ⅓ of the dried pasta until golden brown (it cooks fast). Remove to a paper-towel lined plate to drain. Sprinkle the fired pasta with salt.
Bring a large pot of water to boil and salt it generously. Meanwhile, heat the olive oil and garlic in a large pan over medium heat. When the garlic starts to sizzle, add the chili peppers, rosemary, and bay leaves. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the chickpeas into the pan and spoon in just enough of the chickpea cooking water to get a simmer going. Let the sauce simmer while you cook the pasta, adding more chickpea water if necessary to maintain moisture.
When the water comes to a rolling boil, add the pasta and cook until al dente to your taste—about 2 minutes, depending on the thickness. Transfer the cooked pasta into the pan with a slotted spoon and add a pinch of black pepper. Stir all together over medium/high heat until the pasta is evenly coated in sauce. Serve immediately, topped with a drizzle of olive oil and the fried pasta pieces.
Buon appetito!